CARMEL/MONTEREY 4TH OF JULY-PART 2

The highlight of the afternoon festivities was an appearance by the Comets of Bill Haley and “Rock Around The Clock” fame. Haley passed away some years ago, but the other original five members of the group had reunited and were enjoying international recognition. For their years, could they still rock! Wow! Their average age was 76, with the oldest band member being 84. Well beyond Viagra, and expected to be in a retirement home? Not so for these guys! They presented a brilliant show, displayed astonishing passion for their work, surprising vitality for their age, and just shear joy in being before an audience and performing. Their appearance was the highlight of the day. Filling a huge vacuum after the Comets departed the stage, local politicians, headlined by the mayor, and followed by several councilmen and so forth, tried their best to hold the audience with patriotic speeches. But, in true American fashion, most of crowd, including Elysee and I, drifted away to get a slice of the free Fourth of July birthday cake.

CARMEL/MONTEREY 4TH OF JULY

Placing flags along Alvarado Street Colors passing in review Excerpted from my book OUR SUMMER IN CARMEL at Amazon.com FOURTH OF JULY IN MONTEREY The Monterey Peninsula is comprised of several small towns woven seamlessly together all hugging the cool waters of Monterey Bay, witheach community having its own distinct character. In Carmel there was a gathering at Devendorf Park, the social center of the village, with live music. Pacific Grove, a small former Victorian village separated from Carmel by Carmel Hill, was having its own parade. Seaside, a very patriotic community that borders Ft. Ord with many retired military personnel in residence, had already rolled out their annual parade two days earlier on a Saturday. Another choice to celebrate on the actual holiday was provided by the City of Monterey. For Elysee and me, the Fourth of July is one holiday that should be celebrated on the Fourth. Not the day before or even two days before because it is more convenient. After reading about our options in the local newspaper, none promised to compare with the small town Ol’ Fourth of July celebration being promoted by the City of Monterey. We went there early in the morning on the fourth and were not disappointed in our choice. Elysee and I took notice of Monterey’s professional management of the day’s agenda, the family atmosphere that prevailed, and the small town patriotism spiced with California’s inevitable submission to diversity in the parade makeup. Talk about leaving “no one” behind! The only surprising absence was that there was no gay marching band. But we saw everything else, including middle-aged Middle East belly dancers parading in the red white and blue. I never quite understood their participation. As expected from a small town parade, children were plentifully represented both in the parade and along the curb. There were ample numbers of clowns to entertain them, many handing out both small flags and candy. Truly, it was an affair for young and old. As befitting the occasion, the townspeople and visitors assembled along the main street of Monterey, Alvarado Street, and at the precise scheduled moment of 10 o’clock the festivities began. About a platoon sized unit of enlisted army personnel, singing and marching in cadence paraded down Alvarado Street, led by a master sergeant. Each soldier carried a medium sized United States flag mounted on a pole. The soldier positioned this flag in a designated slot alongside the curb, and then took the position of attention facing the flag. Once the entire halfmile street was decorated, well-positioned loudspeakers called the public to attention, and the national anthem was played. It was so well done, impressive, orderly, and precise in its timing, that it set just the right tone for the first parade element, the passing of the colors.

CARMEL: WHY CARMEL? -PART ONE

Carmel Beach. Sun setting into the fog bank that is getting ever closer to shore. Excerpted from my book, OUR SUMMER in CARMEL, Amazon.com Why Carmel? Bearing in mind we are to consider the entire world each year for place to spend the summer, why Carmel? And why am I making repeated visits when I preach about the virtues of going to a different place each year? The simple answer is that I have an incurable attraction to the Monterey Peninsula. From the first time I drove through in December, 1964 upon returning from a year tour with the Army in Korea. It was love at first sight. I was seduced by the special appeal of Monterey and Carmel, witnessing the magnificent coastline and crashing waves along Seventeen Mile Drive in Pebble Beach, and the exhilarating drive South along the coast road, staying overnight in the Big Sur and dining at Nepanthe, before it became a hangout. I like so many before me wa stricken by what I call monterey malady; an insatiable urge to roam, explore and poke about the wonders of this magnificent meeting of land and sea. First and foremost Carmel, fits neatly into our criteria for a home-away-from-home. Having Celtic blood in my veins I do not seek summer beaches and 90 degree temperatures. The average maximum temperature for June, July and August is 68 degrees.; the average minimum 51. Moreover, of the 183 annual foggy days each year, most of them occur in the summer. Bless my Irish soul. Carmel fog is a sea fog which infiltrates the coastal pines in the late evening, soon engulfing the entire coast, and dissipating by mid-morning the next day. The fog often lingers off-shore all day, a constant reminder of the cool ocean waters awaiting any bather not fortified by a wet suit, and signaling a promise to return with the setting sun. To find out why this is read my book. I don't want to bore readers here with the special factors that contribute to Monterey's fog. Suffice to say the fog is a silent invasion that contributes greatly not only to the mystique of the region, but nurishes the special nature of its forests.

CARMEL/MONTEREY HISTORY: STATEHOOD

Colton Hall, built just in time for the convention and now a treasured California historic site. (Excerpted from my book: OUR SUMMER IN CARMEL Amazon.com) This posting completes a short history of the region from the period of pre-history to statehood. Springtime 1849 brought a new administration to Washington in the name of Zachary Taylor and a new Governor for California, Brigadier General Bennett Riley. Both men were pledged to act quickly on the complicated question of statehood, bypassing the usual period of territorial status. With the discovery of gold and the influx of 49ers something had to be done soon. Elections were held for Representatives to a constitutional convention and a cast of characters emerged. John Sutter, a Swiss immigrant who had adopted Mexican citizenship and on whose property gold had been discovered; Mr. Fremont, now once more a civilian having lost his commission in a courts martial but now reunited with his beautiful and influential wife Jessie, recently arrived via Panama on the gold seekers route; the seven foot tall adventurer and Kentuckian John Semple who was elected convention chairman; Thomas Larkin, the former US Counsel who was now out of a job; and the Mexican General Vallejo from Sonora a leading Californio. The delegates were appointed by population. San Francisco and Sacramento had eight each, demonstrating their sudden explosive growth due to the discovery of gold. Monterey had six. Of the 48 delegates half were under 35 years of age. The convention, which was was held in Delegate Colton's newly built Town Hall, addressed many Thorny issues. Did the delegates want to stay as a territory or become a state? Was California to be slave or free. Should non-whites be allowed to vote, thereby extending suffrage to Indians? According to the treaty with Mexico, California included all of present day Nevada, Arizona and most of Utah. Where should California's boundary be drawn? These issues were mostly decided outside the chambers, discussions going on at parties, in the bars and on the streets of Monterey. Among the party givers was the exuberant Jessie Fremont. She could afford to entertain, although ex-Lieutenant Colonel Fremont did not have much of a pension. Recall the $3,000 dollars given by Fremont to Thomas Larkin to buy property in San Jose? Larkin instead helped out his friend Juan Alvarado who was in debt but owned the 44,360 acre Mariposa Ranch, in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada. Fremont was furious when he heard what had been done.Those foothills were a long way from the rapidly developing and soon to become state capital. But guess what? That far away ranch was now turning out sacks of gold and would soon be valued at millions of dollars. Calofornia real estate then; California real estate now---some things don't change. The Fremont's were rich. After six weeks of debate, horse trading, future promises, winking and nodding, and all other forms of political chicanery, a deal was struck and the documents were ready for signing. After an all night party the delegates assembled to cast their votes. After each signature a resounding canon salute would be fired. On the thirty-first shot from the cannon the draft Constitution was signed and a majority had voted for statehood. The constitution was adopted, and amid rousing cheers the State of California was born. On September 9, 1850 by act of Congress, California was admitted to the Union as the 31 state with San Jose becoming its first capital. The Yankees and Forty-Niners had arrived.

CARMEL/MONTEREY HISTORY: The Yankees Take Charge

Known as California's first theater it was first a tavern and lodgings built by an English sailor just in time (1846-47) for use by U.S. Army soldiers during the territorial occupation. (Excerpted from my book OUR SUMMER IN CARMEL Amazon.com) It is one thing to proclaim that all of California now belongs to the United States, quite another to take charge. Commodore Sloat, being ill, and perhaps out of his element where spontaneous decision making was needed, turned his command over to the younger, more energetic, Commodore Stockton. Freemont, ever the adventurer, arrived with about 200 irregulars, spoiling for action. Walter Colton, a Navy chaplain, was appointed the Mayor of Monterey, with instructions to exert some measure of civil authority. Thankfully, much to the relief of the frightened townspeople, Fremont went south to fight a Mexican resistance force. With his departure a period of calm set in. Colton, finding no place to exercise his duties, constructed a town hall using convict labor and almost no public money. The resulting building, which stands to this day was at its time the grandest structure in all California. Even in these early times, securing the peace was more difficult than envisioned. Unexpected events and human nature trumped what seemed to be sound planning. General Kearny arrived on the scene with a land army and instructions from the war department to take charge of both civil and military affairs. Stockton, before he set sail, has appointed the mercurial, ambitious Fremont as Governor of California. Fremont, who meanwhile had obtained a commission and was now a Lieutenant Colonel in the U.S. Army, refused to cooperate with Kearney. "Mayor" Colton sided with Kearney, but the U.S. Counsel Larkin, sided with Freemont. Larkin, was not entirely objective. He had been given $3,000 by Freemont, a tidy sum at the time, to purchase land in Freemont's name in San Jose, a bustling up-and-coming city. Into this stewpot of personalities, conflicting authority, and ambitions was now added the ultimate spice, gold. Nine days before signing the Peace Treaty with Mexico that granted all of California to the United States, gold was discovered at Sutter's Mill, near present day Sacramento. Pushing aside rationality, "gold fever" swept the frenzied minds soldiers and civilian, Mexicans an Americans and all other types of freelancers. Fortunately, a wet winter dampened enthusiasms and Kearney removed the most volatile ingredient by having Freemont arrested for mutiny. The Court Martial papers for a future candidate for the presidency of the United States were forwarded to Washington. Kearny's decisive action did much to exert needed authority. During the winter several meetings were held to discuss the way forward and a clear consensus emerged for convening a constitutional convention in the spring. As 1848 was an election year, that convention would be held under a new administration giving time for new instructions. (Next the ending of the history lesson with the constitutional convention, the 49ers and California becoming a state.)

CARMEL/MONTEREY HISTORY: The Yankees Arrive

The Mexican Customs House still stands where Commodore Sloat took possession of all California for the United States. (Excerpted from my book OUR SUMMER IN CARMEL, Amazon.com) Although it took Spain almost three hundred years to get off their galleons and settle California, in a space of only seventy more years Spain would lose California and sovereignty would change twice over that vast rich area. During the early 1800s Spain, like much of Europe, was embroiled in the Napoleonic wars. Her increasingly scanty resources and accelerating loss of control over her vast overseas empire resulted in a weaker nation, compared to two centuries earlier. Not only were wars in Europe causing Spain much distress, but taking advantage of her weak position, rebellion in her Latin American Empire was widespread. Thus, the small outpost on Monterey in far off Alta California received little attention and even less of Spain's resources. When the French pirate Bouchard, flying under Argentine's revolutionary colors, sailed into Monterey Bay the dozen Spanish soldiers quickly retreated to Salinas and let the pirate and his 300 men ransack the town and hang around for a week before sailing on. Therefore, it came as no surprise that Spanish rule over California ended without a protest, a scant 52 years after the solemn founding Mass said under the great oak. On April 11, 1822 the Governor read a proclamation that Mexico had declared her Independence from Spain. The Spanish flag was furled and the Mexican hoisted. Guns were fired in salute, oaths of allegiance were administered, and that was that. Really! As easy as that the Spanish outpost in Monterey and all of present day California, became part of the newly independent country of Mexico. The ensuing 25 years of Mexican rule is confusing even to the most dedicated historian. Mexican governance resembled a comic opera of revolts, counter-revolts, intrigues, nepotism, the secularization of the church and the confiscation of most church property, land grabs and a confusion of land claims. During this period of inept Mexican rule, two events occurred that are worth mentioning from the perspective of the United States. In 1841, the first organized expedition with the intention to settle in California, the Bidwell-Bartleson party, crossed the Sierra's. Having shown the way and lack of Mexican resistance, they were followed by many more, for example the one led by seven foot Kentucky frontiersman Robert Semple, who later would preside over the California Constitutional Convention. Another, more serious, incursion was led by the noted adventurer, explorer and self-promoter John Charles Fremont, son-in-law of the powerful Senator Thomas Hart Benton, chairman of the Military-Affairs Committee, on a so-called mapping survey. These were men of action, with little patience for the Californios method of governance. They were determined men, ready to risk all in carving out their future, and unabashedly intent on seeing the United States flag fly over California. These were the implementers of the philosophy, prevalent at the time by men such as Senator Benton, of Manifest Destiny. A little over four years passed when, on May 1846, the United States declared war on Mexico. Following standing orders in case of such an eventuality, the Pacific Squadron, under the command of Commodore John Sloat, a 65 year old cautious and ailing sailor, nearing retirement, sailed into Monterey Bay. The weakness of the Mexican defenses was revealed when Sloat, following protocol and wanting to fire a salute to the Mexican flag, was informed that there was not only no Mexican flag to fly above the Presidio, but no powder to return the salute. On July 7, Sloat landed 250 marines and seaman, read a proclamation that henceforth California was a territory of the United States, fired a 21 gun salute, and raised the flag of the United States. That was that!( More on these auspicious events in the next posting.)

Monterey/Carmel History-Spain finally plants a flag

(Excerpted from my book; OUR SUMMER IN CARMEL Amazon.com) When Portola returned to San Diego he found a deplorable situation. A third of his men had died, mostly from scurvy; six more had died from an Indian attack. With no provisions and no sign of the supply ship he was ready to scrap the entire project and return to Mexico. However, almost as in a Hollywood script, just as his self imposed time limit was approaching, the San Antonio sailed in with fresh supplies. With this encouragement, Portola was reenergized to continue his quest. Undaunted, they set forth again in April 1770, dividing his party once more into a seaborne expedition that carried Fr. Serra among others, and a land excursion led by Portola following the route he had blazed the year before. This time, arriving in Monterey on May, 24, they recognized the signs in Vizcaino's 160 year old report and also discovered the cross they had left on the beach the previous December. They were surprised to find the the cross had been adorned by the natives with clams, meat, and sardines. The natives must have witness3d Portola's ceremony when erecting the cross and attributed some special meaning in having it placed there. On Sunday June 3, 1770, with the ringing of bells and a beautiful morning sunrise, the entire party, land and sea, gathered near the same mighty oak under which Vizcaino and the Carmelites had celebrated mass years earlier. On this occasion the Spanish explorers celebrated the founding of Monterey and claimed all California in the name of King Charles III. At the same ceremony, The Mission San Carlos de Borromeo was proclaimed. A name specifically requested by the King of Spain in honor of his patron saint. Spain, 228 years dating from Cabrillo, and 168 years following Vizcaino's landing, had come to stay. Finally! A statue of Fr. Serra seen stepping from a small boat in Monterey gazing out on the harbor today from a deserted clearing at the US Army base, at the original Spanish Presidio of Monterey, the very site of the historic Mass that Sunday long ago.

MONTEREY/CARMEL HISTORY-SPAIN GETS SERIOUS

The site of Portola's cross with a small plaque set into a rock, on Monterey Beach today, Monterey seen in the backgound. Not a fitting tribute. (Excerpted from my book Our Summer In CarmelAmazon.com) It is difficult today to understand why it took Spain 160 years to follow-up on Vizcaino's groundbreaking exploration. It is true that Spain was preoccupied with European conflicts. They were also receiving a great amount of treasure from the possessions they already acquired in the new world. Even great nations can get complacent. Finally, it was no easy task for Spain to manage the already vast empire of New Spain, much less occupy a huge new territory such as Alta California that seemed to have little promise of yielding additional wealth to the King's treasury. Two developments finally forced Madrid to reassess their position regarding Alta California. Russia had established a strong foothold in Alaska to capitalize on the valuable fur trade, and was also expanding hunting forays and establishing a national presence through colonies in present day northern California. If that wasn't enough the English were so successful in colonizing the Atlantic Coast that they too were considering similar prospects on northern California and present day western Canada. Another factor that would have a historic impact on Spain's awakening interest in Alta California, was King Charles IIIs loathing of the independent-minded Jesuits. He was determined to replace them with the more amenable Franciscans and turn over to them the fourteen missions the Jesuits had already established in Baja California. There happened to be a Franciscan missionary of great zeal and administrative excellence already in Mexico, a man of humble manner but great tenacity, who only needed to be called to do the King's bidding; Fr. Junipero Serra. Serra had arrived in Mexico in 1749 at the age of 36, labored assiduously for eight years in the Sierra Gorda mountains and created an orderly administration of five missions. His work done he semi-retired waiting for more challenging work. Ten years would pass but events were under way to call him back to even greater service. Another major actor in the unfolding drama was Visitor-General Jose de Galvaz, appointed to replace the Jesuits by King Charles III. He selected Serra to lead the missions in the Baja and ask him to report to Captain Gaspar de Portola then residing at the mother mission in Loretto. Unexpectedly a courier from the Viceroy of New Spain brought word that the Russians were moving south from Alaska and would likely try to establish a trading post at Monterey. Something had to be done. At a meeting of all the actors on May 16, 1768 at San Blas it was decided to organize a colonizing mission to Monterey. Portola would be in command and Serra would establish a new chain of missions to consolidate Spain's presence. It took another year to prepare the expedition but on May 15, 1769 Portola set out for present day San Diego by land and dispatched his ships with additional provisions to met him there. It took Portola 41 days to reach San Diego only to find that of the 90 men who set sail only fourteen had arrived safely, and most of them were sick. Furthermore, most of the provisions had been consumed. Courageous and persistent Portola decided to press forward. He sent one ship back for resupply, left Serra to care for the wounded, and instructed them to meet him later in Monterey; he was going by land through a trackless wilderness. Unfortunately Portola took a route north along the rugged coast. Had he gone inland he would have followed the easier route of present day highway 101. Coming to the Salinas river the party made their way to the coast, but became confused. Portola had in fact arrived at Monterey, but failed to recognize it. Moreover the provision ship failed to arrive. With winter setting in, his party exhausted, and almost out of provisions Portola determined he had to return to San Diego and regroup. In case the provision ship did arrive, Portola erected a cross and left a note in a bottle at its base, fearing that none of his party would survive. It read, "The land expedition is returning to San Diego for lack of provisions, today Dec. 9, 1769." They were exactly where they wanted to be, but did not recognize it. The survivors staggered into San Diego on January 14, 1770 having traveled 1000 miles through a forbidding, trackless wilderness with nothing accomplished. Portola does not give up. The rest of the story in the next post.

MONTEREY/CARMEL HISTORY- Discovering Monterey-Carmel

(Excerpted from my book Our Summer in Carmel Amazon.com) Vizcaino's Rock. An unworthy tribute. See below. From Carbrillo's misadventures in 1542 more than fifty yeas would pass before Spain would pay any attention to his expedition. Events on a larger scale prodded Spain into action. By the close of the 16th Century, Spain was engaged in extended trading between Mexico and its outpost in the Philippines, Manila. But their treasure laden ships were exposed to attack, particularly by the English, and the likes of Sir Francis Drake. Drake had already landed not far north of present day San Francisco, and claimed the entire Pacific coast for Queen Elizabeth. Something had to be done. Officials in Mexico decided it was time to organize an expedition for the specific purpose of surveying the California coast. The man chosen was Sebastian Vizcaino (Vis-Cane-nyo) an experienced seaman who, like Carbrillo before him, invested much of his own money in the adventure. He sailed from Acapulco on 5 May, 1602, sixty years after Carbrilo, with three ships, 200 men, and three Carmelite Friars. (Aha, you say. ites! The plot thickens) After six months (it took Carbrillo three) Vizcaino reached San Miguel and renamed it San Diego in honor of the saint. He did the same in renaming Bahia de los Humos San Pedro at present day Los Angeles, thereby wiping out Carbrillo's contribution to famous place names. Sorry Carbrillo, no copyright laws in those days. The coastal mountains below Monterey were named Santa Lucia, after another catholic feast day. Those three Carmelite Friars were hard at work on the Catholic Calendar of Saints and Feast days, in case something new developed any day. Well, something was about to happen. On the 15th of December, the party passed a pine-covered headland jutting out into the sea which they named Punta de Pinos. Not long afterwards they saw, for the first time Monterey Bay. The next day, all three ships entered the calm waters that Vizciano named Monterey, in honor of the Viceroy of New Spain, The Conde de Monte Rey. Was Vizcaino a bootlicker? Not really, it was good job security back then to name places after your boss. Upon landing they found a landmark in a great oak tree, fresh water flowing from a stream nearby, and material to build a small nave. One of the Friars said mass under the great oak, and legend has it that at the end of the service, the fog lifted revealing the beautiful waters of the bay and the abundant forests beyond. NAMING CARMEL. The day before leaving to return to Mexico, Vizcaino took an expedition to see what lay over the hill to south we now know as Carmel Hill on Highway 1. Thus on January 3rd. he discovered a river flowing into a smaller bay and named it Rio Carmelo, in honor of the friars who had accompanied him. It was payback time for the three monks. Little known is that the name Carmel River, dating from January, 1603, is one of the oldest place names in the United states. I looked all around for the spot that Vizcaino landed on and held his service under the great oak. It is marked by a rock alongside a large parking garage and a tunnel exit diverting traffic around the bay. I doubt very many in Monterey even know of its existence. This important site was to play a role later for future explorers. It is equivalent to Plymouth Rock...the Plymouth Rock of the West Coast. But it has been shunted aside. What a shame. As Elysee said, lost between a rock and a hard place.

Monterey History- Part two

(Excerpted from my book Our Summer in Carmel, Amazon.com) In what the Spanish called Alta California, there was not the relentless effort to colonize, proselytize and claim territory that there had been in Mexico, Peru and the Eastern coasts of the new world. But change was coming, none the less. Perhaps the first Spaniard to see the Monterey area was Juan Rodriguez Carbrillo. The records are sparse and historians are uncertain. Carbrllo had come to Mexico in 1519 as part of an expedition to reprimand Hernan Cortes for exceeding his authority in dealing with the Aztecs. Rather than reprimanding Cortes, he instead joined him, and was instrumental in Cortes' defeat of the Aztecs. Twenty years later, Cabrillo, then a prosperous landowner, a founder of Guatemala City, and a settled married man was asked by the Governor of Spain's empire in Central America, to lead an expedition to explore the possible riches further up the coast to what is called Alta California. (I will skip here the politics of why it took over two years to set sail, and uundermanned at that, but a brief summary is contained in the book.) Cabrillo discovered and named (all to be changed later) San Diego, Catalina Island, and Los Angeles. Sailing further north, he encountered a series of difficulties. He broke his arm in a storm, continued sailing north despite declining provisions, and on November 11, 1542, was again stricken by a storm off of present day Point Pinos at nearby Monterey Bay. No sooner had they sighted this landmark that the ships were blown back out to sea and the expedition was finally forced to turn around, making landfall at San Miguel, present day San Diego. While waiting out the severe winter storms, the brave Cabrillo succumbed to gangrene, never having seen the Monterey area. From Cabrillo's misadventures more than fifty years would pass before Spain would pay any attention to his expedition. It was later events, on a larger scale, that finally prodded Spain into action