HISTORY OF CARMEL'S DEVELOPMENT-PART THREE

GRETEL 1925 HANSEL 1924 Two adorable Hugh Comstock fairy tale cottages epitomize Carmel's development. Excerpted from my book: OUR SUMMER IN CARMEL-AMAZON.COM Over the years, builders such as Hugh Comstock in the 1920s, constructed quaint cottages that came to symbolize Carmel’s special character; and special it really is! Paving the streets was a hotly debated development issue opposed by many as an act of “boosterism” that catered to commercial interests. Neon signs were banned, and even today, Carmel’s bars are not allowed to have live entertainment because they would attract the “wrong crowd.” But changes in lifestyle, over time, can erode even the strongest will to resist altering what was once accepted and honored. Holding on to the past while resisting the power of money and change is impossible. The Carmel artistic colony today strives hard to retain its former charm. The city clings to its unique traditions such as no mail delivery and no stop lights, and promotes the arts to an extraordinary level considering its small size. But one also gets the sense that paying homage to quaint traditions also has something to do with presenting an attractive image; an image that caters to what visitors have come to expect. Keeping Carmel somewhat like “earlier Carmel,” is what the visitor is mostly looking for; but not necessarily what residents today want for themselves. Tourism has won the battle that was fought between earlier Carmelites, some of whom sought to preserve the idea of an artistic enclave, and others who wanted to modernize and develop. The city planning document of 1929 had an extraordinary mission statement, especially considering the rampant commercialism of the time: "The city of Carmel-by-the-Sea is hereby determined to be primarily, essentially and predominantly a residential city wherein business and commerce have in the past, are now, and are proposed to be in the future, subordinated to its residential character." Today, property interests, meaning the all-encompassing real estate sector, dominate Carmel-by-the-Sea’s commerce. Housing is so expensive only the elite can afford to own a home. The days of the underpaid artist, poet, or writer starting out in life with little but their inspiration, seeking the solitude of Carmel to nurture their talent among kindred souls, has long ago left the scene. Carmel is delightful and entertaining. The inhabitants are successful, culturally sensitive, and intelligent. Their lifestyle is like few places in the world. But Carmel-by-the-Sea is no longer a small town village or a unique place of artistic inspiration.

THE STORY OF CARMEL'S DEVELOPMENT - PART TWO

FOREST THEATER WHICH WILL CELEBRATE ITS 100 ANNIVERSARY IN 2010 MARY AUSTIN, JACK LONDON, GEORGE STERLING, JIMMIE HOOPER ON CARMEL BEACH DURING THE EARLY BOHEMIAN PERIOD. Excerpt from my book OUR SUMMER IN CARMEL: AMAZON.COM It was during the time at the beginning of the century that San Francisco became a lure for playwrights, poets, authors, actors and actresses, which altogether comprised a bohemian society. Frank Powers, who was Devendorf's partner in the Carmel Development Company, and who was well-known to that bohemian circle, and espousing the virtues of his newly founded “Walden,” certainly attracted artists to experience the tranquil, forested, raw-natured seaside of, Carmel. Avant-garde artists about that time were seeking a refuge where they could indulge in the current idea that artists should lead simple lives thereby sharpening their artistic sensitivities. In Carmel they could farm and graze what food they needed, harvest the abundant abalone, take fish from the rivers, and hunt in the woods. Frequent abalone feasts on the beach became the norm and spontaneous outpourings of poetic verse were common. Leading this artistic movement to Carmel was the poet, George Sterling. He came to Carmel to be with “just one woman,” his wife, and to leave the drinking and the womanizing life of San Francisco behind. He was thirty-six in 1905. His “following” followed him. Jack London and Mary Austin; later Upton Sinclair and a young Sinclair Lewis. Painters followed, awed by Carmel’s natural but wild seacoast, exquisite light, ocean and surf, mountains and sea. It was a special time for all of them. They lived like children in a rarified warp of time. They had picnics on the beach at sundown, toiled during the day to eke out a living on the land, and at night gathered together for wine and talk, all the while encouraging each other’s talent and creativity. Bohemian enclaves are heady wine for the young, the naïve, and the self-sufficient. They do not outlast life’s reality. Jack London died of kidney disease in 1916. Sterling’s wife did not find matrimonial solace in escaping to the woods of Carmel and the promise of “just one woman.” She took her life by cyanide a few years after London’s passing. A decade later Sterling killed himself by the same means. This episode in Carmel’s history is covered in excellent detail by Franklin Walker in The Seacoast of Bohemia. Many of the early bohemians drifted away. Yet, a core few remained, becoming the seed of Carmel’s cultural future. The word was out. Carmel held a special promise for those seeking solitude, those who wanted to create, those who dared to think and act differently. It was out of those early years from which today’s Forest Theater sprung, as well as the Golden Bough Theater, the many renowned art and music festivals, and the profusion of artists, actors, playwrights and others with a creative aptitude who continue to live here today and, although in a very different commercial climate make Carmel today a special place.

THE STORY OF CARMEL'S DEVELOPMENT-PART ONE

THE PINE INN AFTER RELOCATION. MIGHT EVEN BE DEVENDORF'S BUGGY. THE PINE INN TODAY EXPANDED BUT IN THE SAME LOCATION. EXCERPT FROM MY BOOK: OUR SUMMER IN CARMEL, AMAZON.COM The square mile incorporated city of Carmel-by-the-Sea, in addition to the 120 galleries and art studios, also claims two stage theaters, the internationally acclaimed Bach Festival, the equally renowned Shakespeare Festival, a music society, and an annual art festival among its more prominent cultural events. This focus on the arts is not a recent Chamber of Commerce effort to boost tourism. Unlike other California real estate developments around the turn of the 19th Century, from the onset Carmel was a settlement of artists. The original inspiration for developing Carmel came from the neighboring town of Pacific Grove. In that small seaside community during the 1880’s, a group of people representing the Methodist Church established a summer retreat. A retreat that attracted adherents to the Chautauqua Movement, a turn-of-the century Christian based, cultural-enlightenment and self-improvement program. The original developer of present day Carmel thought that, because of the Carmel Mission’s proximity, (the Serra Mission incidentally was in the process of restoration,) the developer could emulate Pacific Grove’s Methodist oriented success with, in this case, a retreat for Roman Catholics. His idea did not succeed for several reasons. First, Carmel was difficult to get to. The developer’s promise (hope) that the railroad from Monterey would be extended to reach the Carmel Mission never happened. Additionally, in the early 1890s, the national economy entered into a recession, causing the bloom to fade on California tourism and discretionary spending for second homes. Adding to these woes was the reality that Carmel was very isolated when compared to Pacific Grove, discouraging even the wealthiest and most enlightened Catholics. The original Carmel developer, Santiago Duckworth, in an attempt to redirect his marketing plan away from duplicating the religious theme of Pacific Grove, had the town renamed “Carmel-by-the-Sea.” He built a bathhouse on the beach and a small hotel to accommodate buyers who remained overnight as they pondered the purchase of a lot in Carmel. Duckworth’s efforts could not overcome the geographic disadvantages, and he was rapidly running out of money and personal enthusiasm. Enter Frank Devendorf. Devendorf, when visiting the Monterey area several years earlier, had seen Carmel beach and was enthralled by the scenery and landscape. He was an experienced realtor, having been instrumental in the development of such communities as Morgan Hill and Santa Cruz in the San Francisco bay area. When Duckworth came to him, looking for a way out of his Carmel project, it did not take long for Devendorf, who was already captivated by Carmel, to swap real estate he owned in the Stockton area for Duckworth’s Carmel holdings. The forty-six-year-old Devendorf then teamed with Frank Powers, a successful San Francisco attorney, heir to a family fortune from the gold rush days, and an energetic and far sighted outdoorsman. Together, they made an unbeatable team, being perfectly matched for the development of Carmel. Each man had his own vision beyond just making Carmel a financial success. Devendorf had always prided himself on building enduring communities, not simply exploiting California’s real estate boom and bust cycle. He had a populist background, influenced by Teddy Roosevelt’s politics and a Jeffersonian heritage. Powers was a driven man, interested in the restoration of the Carmel Mission and exploring the wild coast south of Carmel. They each shared an interest in preserving the landscape, not an interest generally ascribed to by developers during their time. Powers also brought financial resources and legal and business connections to the partnership; Devendorf, the on-site management savvy for real estate development. They formed the Carmel Development Company in 1902, and the rest is history. Devendorf traveled by horse and buggy every Monday from his home in Berkeley to his office in Carmel, where he would spend the remainder of the week. He was the partner who showed the land, set the terms of sale, and encouraged growth. Weary by Friday, he made the long trip back to Berkeley. He was creative. He used log rollers to move the hotel that Duckworth had built to a more central location in the middle of Carmel, renaming it the Pine Inn. Greatly expanded, the Pine Inn is in the same location today, a landmark Carmel hotel. Relocating the hotel was not an easy feat. Ocean Avenue, at the time, was no more than a steep, rutted and pitted grade cursedly named the Devil’s Staircase. During heavy rain, it became an uncontrolled rivulet instead of a main street. From these humble beginnings, just over one-hundred years ago Carmel began to grow from an inaccessable wilderness, and in so doing attracted a different sort of resident; one that would put its stamp on the character of the place, forever.

WHY CARMEL: PART THREE

CROWD PLEASERS AT THE MONTEREY BAY ACQUARIUM (Excerpt from my book: OUR SUMMER IN CARMEL: AMAZON.COM) Mother Nature’s gifts to Carmel and Monterey Bay are not limited to its trees. The sand in places on Carmel Beach is strikingly white. This is attributed to a prehistoric upwards thrust of the coast that exposed the light-colored granite, which, over the ages, has been ground down to a fine, white-powder-sand beach. Also, there is Carmel’s signature critter, the sea otter. These playful animals are the darlings of the Monterey Aquarium, but barely survived to this day because of their valuable pelts; more sought after at one time than ermine or sable. They were nearly hunted into extinction. Why the sea otter was so valuable is the extreme thickness of its fur. Not having layers of fat like seals to protect themselves from the cold waters of the California coast, the sea otter developed a fur coat so thick, it has more hair per square inch than any other animal, preventing the cold water from penetrating to their skin. This also made them very valuable, especially to the Russian fur traders who came farther and farther south along the coast in pursuit of these mammals, an expansion that contributed to spurring the Spaniards to action and finally settling Northern, California. It would be possible to write an entire chapter about these incredibly lovable mammals. How they roll onto their backs and pound a mussel against a rock on their chest to get at the meat, nibbling at their meal held in tiny paws like a gourmet sampling an appetizer. A mother nestling an offspring against her chest is one of nature’s most maternal visual images. Sea otters napping, as they wrap themselves in kelp and simply drift with the current, are a poster for “sans souci.” They leave us with the image of a whiskered face, looking like a wise grandfather, peering at us with their dark brown eyes; a weary look saying that they have seen more than we care to know. It was long thought that the sea otter was hunted to extinction. But far down the wild and inaccessible Big Sur coast a few survived. When Highway 1 was pushed through the region as a depression era project, workers discovered a few long-surviving small colonies of sea otters, which were quickly protected by the Federal government. The entire central coastline is now a protected sea otter preserve. It is estimated that, in the 1930s, there were only a small singledigit number of survivors. There are about 2,800 today.

WHY CARMEL? -PART TWO

Keep to the right. The Monterey Pine in the middle of the road has all other rights in Carmel. Perhaps the world's most photographed tree, the Lone Cypress at Pebble Beach. Excerpted from my book OUR SUMMER IN CARMEL; Amazon.com Carmel's unusual climatic conditions contribute to several other natural phenomena. One example is the Monterey Pine. This is the tree that Cabrillo discovered in 1542 after which he named Cabo de Pinos. This species of pine grows large, tall and straight, a shipwright’s dream-tree in the sailing days of the 16-17th centuries. It is the world’s fastest growing pine; some are known to grow ten feet in a year! Although this tree is found in many places in the world today, it is indigenous to only a few places in California, Monterey being the principle locale. It is understood that the pine flourishes here because the moisture from the summer fog nourishes it during what would otherwise be a drought season. It seldom rains in Carmel from June to September. If you want to get into serious trouble in Carmel, begin by messing around with the trees. Carmel has, for years, treasured its forests and, for a city of only 4,000, has a full-time warden just to look after the trees. You better talk to the warden before you even begin to think about removing a branch, much less a tree. Another tree found in abundance throughout the Monterey area is the live oak. Their twisted branches, oftentimes just skimming the ground, lend character to any landscape. But the queen of all Carmel’s trees, one of the rarest species in the world, is the Monterey Cypress. Of the entire world’s surface, this tree is indigenous to a tiny few acres on Point Lobos and Cypress Point, each point thrusting itself out into the cool waters of Monterey Bay. You see a picture of perhaps the world's most photographed tree, the Lone Cypress, a symbol of the Pebble Beach Company.A lone sentinel, drawing its strength from the craggy, fog-shrouded often blustery, sea cliff. These rare trees have been the seed from which all the Monterey Cypress in the world originated. They thrive here because of the damp cool winds, passing over the fog-shrouded ocean, that deposit life-sustaining droplets of water on their boughs. Clinging to rocky crags, their branches reaching out almost beseechingly over the seaside cliffs, welcoming the enveloping fog, they thrive where other trees cannot, and cannot grow where other trees do.

CARMEL/MONTEREY 4TH OF JULY-PART 2

The highlight of the afternoon festivities was an appearance by the Comets of Bill Haley and “Rock Around The Clock” fame. Haley passed away some years ago, but the other original five members of the group had reunited and were enjoying international recognition. For their years, could they still rock! Wow! Their average age was 76, with the oldest band member being 84. Well beyond Viagra, and expected to be in a retirement home? Not so for these guys! They presented a brilliant show, displayed astonishing passion for their work, surprising vitality for their age, and just shear joy in being before an audience and performing. Their appearance was the highlight of the day. Filling a huge vacuum after the Comets departed the stage, local politicians, headlined by the mayor, and followed by several councilmen and so forth, tried their best to hold the audience with patriotic speeches. But, in true American fashion, most of crowd, including Elysee and I, drifted away to get a slice of the free Fourth of July birthday cake.

CARMEL/MONTEREY 4TH OF JULY

Placing flags along Alvarado Street Colors passing in review Excerpted from my book OUR SUMMER IN CARMEL at Amazon.com FOURTH OF JULY IN MONTEREY The Monterey Peninsula is comprised of several small towns woven seamlessly together all hugging the cool waters of Monterey Bay, witheach community having its own distinct character. In Carmel there was a gathering at Devendorf Park, the social center of the village, with live music. Pacific Grove, a small former Victorian village separated from Carmel by Carmel Hill, was having its own parade. Seaside, a very patriotic community that borders Ft. Ord with many retired military personnel in residence, had already rolled out their annual parade two days earlier on a Saturday. Another choice to celebrate on the actual holiday was provided by the City of Monterey. For Elysee and me, the Fourth of July is one holiday that should be celebrated on the Fourth. Not the day before or even two days before because it is more convenient. After reading about our options in the local newspaper, none promised to compare with the small town Ol’ Fourth of July celebration being promoted by the City of Monterey. We went there early in the morning on the fourth and were not disappointed in our choice. Elysee and I took notice of Monterey’s professional management of the day’s agenda, the family atmosphere that prevailed, and the small town patriotism spiced with California’s inevitable submission to diversity in the parade makeup. Talk about leaving “no one” behind! The only surprising absence was that there was no gay marching band. But we saw everything else, including middle-aged Middle East belly dancers parading in the red white and blue. I never quite understood their participation. As expected from a small town parade, children were plentifully represented both in the parade and along the curb. There were ample numbers of clowns to entertain them, many handing out both small flags and candy. Truly, it was an affair for young and old. As befitting the occasion, the townspeople and visitors assembled along the main street of Monterey, Alvarado Street, and at the precise scheduled moment of 10 o’clock the festivities began. About a platoon sized unit of enlisted army personnel, singing and marching in cadence paraded down Alvarado Street, led by a master sergeant. Each soldier carried a medium sized United States flag mounted on a pole. The soldier positioned this flag in a designated slot alongside the curb, and then took the position of attention facing the flag. Once the entire halfmile street was decorated, well-positioned loudspeakers called the public to attention, and the national anthem was played. It was so well done, impressive, orderly, and precise in its timing, that it set just the right tone for the first parade element, the passing of the colors.

CARMEL: WHY CARMEL? -PART ONE

Carmel Beach. Sun setting into the fog bank that is getting ever closer to shore. Excerpted from my book, OUR SUMMER in CARMEL, Amazon.com Why Carmel? Bearing in mind we are to consider the entire world each year for place to spend the summer, why Carmel? And why am I making repeated visits when I preach about the virtues of going to a different place each year? The simple answer is that I have an incurable attraction to the Monterey Peninsula. From the first time I drove through in December, 1964 upon returning from a year tour with the Army in Korea. It was love at first sight. I was seduced by the special appeal of Monterey and Carmel, witnessing the magnificent coastline and crashing waves along Seventeen Mile Drive in Pebble Beach, and the exhilarating drive South along the coast road, staying overnight in the Big Sur and dining at Nepanthe, before it became a hangout. I like so many before me wa stricken by what I call monterey malady; an insatiable urge to roam, explore and poke about the wonders of this magnificent meeting of land and sea. First and foremost Carmel, fits neatly into our criteria for a home-away-from-home. Having Celtic blood in my veins I do not seek summer beaches and 90 degree temperatures. The average maximum temperature for June, July and August is 68 degrees.; the average minimum 51. Moreover, of the 183 annual foggy days each year, most of them occur in the summer. Bless my Irish soul. Carmel fog is a sea fog which infiltrates the coastal pines in the late evening, soon engulfing the entire coast, and dissipating by mid-morning the next day. The fog often lingers off-shore all day, a constant reminder of the cool ocean waters awaiting any bather not fortified by a wet suit, and signaling a promise to return with the setting sun. To find out why this is read my book. I don't want to bore readers here with the special factors that contribute to Monterey's fog. Suffice to say the fog is a silent invasion that contributes greatly not only to the mystique of the region, but nurishes the special nature of its forests.

CARMEL/MONTEREY HISTORY: STATEHOOD

Colton Hall, built just in time for the convention and now a treasured California historic site. (Excerpted from my book: OUR SUMMER IN CARMEL Amazon.com) This posting completes a short history of the region from the period of pre-history to statehood. Springtime 1849 brought a new administration to Washington in the name of Zachary Taylor and a new Governor for California, Brigadier General Bennett Riley. Both men were pledged to act quickly on the complicated question of statehood, bypassing the usual period of territorial status. With the discovery of gold and the influx of 49ers something had to be done soon. Elections were held for Representatives to a constitutional convention and a cast of characters emerged. John Sutter, a Swiss immigrant who had adopted Mexican citizenship and on whose property gold had been discovered; Mr. Fremont, now once more a civilian having lost his commission in a courts martial but now reunited with his beautiful and influential wife Jessie, recently arrived via Panama on the gold seekers route; the seven foot tall adventurer and Kentuckian John Semple who was elected convention chairman; Thomas Larkin, the former US Counsel who was now out of a job; and the Mexican General Vallejo from Sonora a leading Californio. The delegates were appointed by population. San Francisco and Sacramento had eight each, demonstrating their sudden explosive growth due to the discovery of gold. Monterey had six. Of the 48 delegates half were under 35 years of age. The convention, which was was held in Delegate Colton's newly built Town Hall, addressed many Thorny issues. Did the delegates want to stay as a territory or become a state? Was California to be slave or free. Should non-whites be allowed to vote, thereby extending suffrage to Indians? According to the treaty with Mexico, California included all of present day Nevada, Arizona and most of Utah. Where should California's boundary be drawn? These issues were mostly decided outside the chambers, discussions going on at parties, in the bars and on the streets of Monterey. Among the party givers was the exuberant Jessie Fremont. She could afford to entertain, although ex-Lieutenant Colonel Fremont did not have much of a pension. Recall the $3,000 dollars given by Fremont to Thomas Larkin to buy property in San Jose? Larkin instead helped out his friend Juan Alvarado who was in debt but owned the 44,360 acre Mariposa Ranch, in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada. Fremont was furious when he heard what had been done.Those foothills were a long way from the rapidly developing and soon to become state capital. But guess what? That far away ranch was now turning out sacks of gold and would soon be valued at millions of dollars. Calofornia real estate then; California real estate now---some things don't change. The Fremont's were rich. After six weeks of debate, horse trading, future promises, winking and nodding, and all other forms of political chicanery, a deal was struck and the documents were ready for signing. After an all night party the delegates assembled to cast their votes. After each signature a resounding canon salute would be fired. On the thirty-first shot from the cannon the draft Constitution was signed and a majority had voted for statehood. The constitution was adopted, and amid rousing cheers the State of California was born. On September 9, 1850 by act of Congress, California was admitted to the Union as the 31 state with San Jose becoming its first capital. The Yankees and Forty-Niners had arrived.

CARMEL/MONTEREY HISTORY: The Yankees Take Charge

Known as California's first theater it was first a tavern and lodgings built by an English sailor just in time (1846-47) for use by U.S. Army soldiers during the territorial occupation. (Excerpted from my book OUR SUMMER IN CARMEL Amazon.com) It is one thing to proclaim that all of California now belongs to the United States, quite another to take charge. Commodore Sloat, being ill, and perhaps out of his element where spontaneous decision making was needed, turned his command over to the younger, more energetic, Commodore Stockton. Freemont, ever the adventurer, arrived with about 200 irregulars, spoiling for action. Walter Colton, a Navy chaplain, was appointed the Mayor of Monterey, with instructions to exert some measure of civil authority. Thankfully, much to the relief of the frightened townspeople, Fremont went south to fight a Mexican resistance force. With his departure a period of calm set in. Colton, finding no place to exercise his duties, constructed a town hall using convict labor and almost no public money. The resulting building, which stands to this day was at its time the grandest structure in all California. Even in these early times, securing the peace was more difficult than envisioned. Unexpected events and human nature trumped what seemed to be sound planning. General Kearny arrived on the scene with a land army and instructions from the war department to take charge of both civil and military affairs. Stockton, before he set sail, has appointed the mercurial, ambitious Fremont as Governor of California. Fremont, who meanwhile had obtained a commission and was now a Lieutenant Colonel in the U.S. Army, refused to cooperate with Kearney. "Mayor" Colton sided with Kearney, but the U.S. Counsel Larkin, sided with Freemont. Larkin, was not entirely objective. He had been given $3,000 by Freemont, a tidy sum at the time, to purchase land in Freemont's name in San Jose, a bustling up-and-coming city. Into this stewpot of personalities, conflicting authority, and ambitions was now added the ultimate spice, gold. Nine days before signing the Peace Treaty with Mexico that granted all of California to the United States, gold was discovered at Sutter's Mill, near present day Sacramento. Pushing aside rationality, "gold fever" swept the frenzied minds soldiers and civilian, Mexicans an Americans and all other types of freelancers. Fortunately, a wet winter dampened enthusiasms and Kearney removed the most volatile ingredient by having Freemont arrested for mutiny. The Court Martial papers for a future candidate for the presidency of the United States were forwarded to Washington. Kearny's decisive action did much to exert needed authority. During the winter several meetings were held to discuss the way forward and a clear consensus emerged for convening a constitutional convention in the spring. As 1848 was an election year, that convention would be held under a new administration giving time for new instructions. (Next the ending of the history lesson with the constitutional convention, the 49ers and California becoming a state.)

CARMEL/MONTEREY HISTORY: The Yankees Arrive

The Mexican Customs House still stands where Commodore Sloat took possession of all California for the United States. (Excerpted from my book OUR SUMMER IN CARMEL, Amazon.com) Although it took Spain almost three hundred years to get off their galleons and settle California, in a space of only seventy more years Spain would lose California and sovereignty would change twice over that vast rich area. During the early 1800s Spain, like much of Europe, was embroiled in the Napoleonic wars. Her increasingly scanty resources and accelerating loss of control over her vast overseas empire resulted in a weaker nation, compared to two centuries earlier. Not only were wars in Europe causing Spain much distress, but taking advantage of her weak position, rebellion in her Latin American Empire was widespread. Thus, the small outpost on Monterey in far off Alta California received little attention and even less of Spain's resources. When the French pirate Bouchard, flying under Argentine's revolutionary colors, sailed into Monterey Bay the dozen Spanish soldiers quickly retreated to Salinas and let the pirate and his 300 men ransack the town and hang around for a week before sailing on. Therefore, it came as no surprise that Spanish rule over California ended without a protest, a scant 52 years after the solemn founding Mass said under the great oak. On April 11, 1822 the Governor read a proclamation that Mexico had declared her Independence from Spain. The Spanish flag was furled and the Mexican hoisted. Guns were fired in salute, oaths of allegiance were administered, and that was that. Really! As easy as that the Spanish outpost in Monterey and all of present day California, became part of the newly independent country of Mexico. The ensuing 25 years of Mexican rule is confusing even to the most dedicated historian. Mexican governance resembled a comic opera of revolts, counter-revolts, intrigues, nepotism, the secularization of the church and the confiscation of most church property, land grabs and a confusion of land claims. During this period of inept Mexican rule, two events occurred that are worth mentioning from the perspective of the United States. In 1841, the first organized expedition with the intention to settle in California, the Bidwell-Bartleson party, crossed the Sierra's. Having shown the way and lack of Mexican resistance, they were followed by many more, for example the one led by seven foot Kentucky frontiersman Robert Semple, who later would preside over the California Constitutional Convention. Another, more serious, incursion was led by the noted adventurer, explorer and self-promoter John Charles Fremont, son-in-law of the powerful Senator Thomas Hart Benton, chairman of the Military-Affairs Committee, on a so-called mapping survey. These were men of action, with little patience for the Californios method of governance. They were determined men, ready to risk all in carving out their future, and unabashedly intent on seeing the United States flag fly over California. These were the implementers of the philosophy, prevalent at the time by men such as Senator Benton, of Manifest Destiny. A little over four years passed when, on May 1846, the United States declared war on Mexico. Following standing orders in case of such an eventuality, the Pacific Squadron, under the command of Commodore John Sloat, a 65 year old cautious and ailing sailor, nearing retirement, sailed into Monterey Bay. The weakness of the Mexican defenses was revealed when Sloat, following protocol and wanting to fire a salute to the Mexican flag, was informed that there was not only no Mexican flag to fly above the Presidio, but no powder to return the salute. On July 7, Sloat landed 250 marines and seaman, read a proclamation that henceforth California was a territory of the United States, fired a 21 gun salute, and raised the flag of the United States. That was that!( More on these auspicious events in the next posting.)

Monterey/Carmel History-Spain finally plants a flag

(Excerpted from my book; OUR SUMMER IN CARMEL Amazon.com) When Portola returned to San Diego he found a deplorable situation. A third of his men had died, mostly from scurvy; six more had died from an Indian attack. With no provisions and no sign of the supply ship he was ready to scrap the entire project and return to Mexico. However, almost as in a Hollywood script, just as his self imposed time limit was approaching, the San Antonio sailed in with fresh supplies. With this encouragement, Portola was reenergized to continue his quest. Undaunted, they set forth again in April 1770, dividing his party once more into a seaborne expedition that carried Fr. Serra among others, and a land excursion led by Portola following the route he had blazed the year before. This time, arriving in Monterey on May, 24, they recognized the signs in Vizcaino's 160 year old report and also discovered the cross they had left on the beach the previous December. They were surprised to find the the cross had been adorned by the natives with clams, meat, and sardines. The natives must have witness3d Portola's ceremony when erecting the cross and attributed some special meaning in having it placed there. On Sunday June 3, 1770, with the ringing of bells and a beautiful morning sunrise, the entire party, land and sea, gathered near the same mighty oak under which Vizcaino and the Carmelites had celebrated mass years earlier. On this occasion the Spanish explorers celebrated the founding of Monterey and claimed all California in the name of King Charles III. At the same ceremony, The Mission San Carlos de Borromeo was proclaimed. A name specifically requested by the King of Spain in honor of his patron saint. Spain, 228 years dating from Cabrillo, and 168 years following Vizcaino's landing, had come to stay. Finally! A statue of Fr. Serra seen stepping from a small boat in Monterey gazing out on the harbor today from a deserted clearing at the US Army base, at the original Spanish Presidio of Monterey, the very site of the historic Mass that Sunday long ago.

MONTEREY/CARMEL HISTORY-SPAIN GETS SERIOUS

The site of Portola's cross with a small plaque set into a rock, on Monterey Beach today, Monterey seen in the backgound. Not a fitting tribute. (Excerpted from my book Our Summer In CarmelAmazon.com) It is difficult today to understand why it took Spain 160 years to follow-up on Vizcaino's groundbreaking exploration. It is true that Spain was preoccupied with European conflicts. They were also receiving a great amount of treasure from the possessions they already acquired in the new world. Even great nations can get complacent. Finally, it was no easy task for Spain to manage the already vast empire of New Spain, much less occupy a huge new territory such as Alta California that seemed to have little promise of yielding additional wealth to the King's treasury. Two developments finally forced Madrid to reassess their position regarding Alta California. Russia had established a strong foothold in Alaska to capitalize on the valuable fur trade, and was also expanding hunting forays and establishing a national presence through colonies in present day northern California. If that wasn't enough the English were so successful in colonizing the Atlantic Coast that they too were considering similar prospects on northern California and present day western Canada. Another factor that would have a historic impact on Spain's awakening interest in Alta California, was King Charles IIIs loathing of the independent-minded Jesuits. He was determined to replace them with the more amenable Franciscans and turn over to them the fourteen missions the Jesuits had already established in Baja California. There happened to be a Franciscan missionary of great zeal and administrative excellence already in Mexico, a man of humble manner but great tenacity, who only needed to be called to do the King's bidding; Fr. Junipero Serra. Serra had arrived in Mexico in 1749 at the age of 36, labored assiduously for eight years in the Sierra Gorda mountains and created an orderly administration of five missions. His work done he semi-retired waiting for more challenging work. Ten years would pass but events were under way to call him back to even greater service. Another major actor in the unfolding drama was Visitor-General Jose de Galvaz, appointed to replace the Jesuits by King Charles III. He selected Serra to lead the missions in the Baja and ask him to report to Captain Gaspar de Portola then residing at the mother mission in Loretto. Unexpectedly a courier from the Viceroy of New Spain brought word that the Russians were moving south from Alaska and would likely try to establish a trading post at Monterey. Something had to be done. At a meeting of all the actors on May 16, 1768 at San Blas it was decided to organize a colonizing mission to Monterey. Portola would be in command and Serra would establish a new chain of missions to consolidate Spain's presence. It took another year to prepare the expedition but on May 15, 1769 Portola set out for present day San Diego by land and dispatched his ships with additional provisions to met him there. It took Portola 41 days to reach San Diego only to find that of the 90 men who set sail only fourteen had arrived safely, and most of them were sick. Furthermore, most of the provisions had been consumed. Courageous and persistent Portola decided to press forward. He sent one ship back for resupply, left Serra to care for the wounded, and instructed them to meet him later in Monterey; he was going by land through a trackless wilderness. Unfortunately Portola took a route north along the rugged coast. Had he gone inland he would have followed the easier route of present day highway 101. Coming to the Salinas river the party made their way to the coast, but became confused. Portola had in fact arrived at Monterey, but failed to recognize it. Moreover the provision ship failed to arrive. With winter setting in, his party exhausted, and almost out of provisions Portola determined he had to return to San Diego and regroup. In case the provision ship did arrive, Portola erected a cross and left a note in a bottle at its base, fearing that none of his party would survive. It read, "The land expedition is returning to San Diego for lack of provisions, today Dec. 9, 1769." They were exactly where they wanted to be, but did not recognize it. The survivors staggered into San Diego on January 14, 1770 having traveled 1000 miles through a forbidding, trackless wilderness with nothing accomplished. Portola does not give up. The rest of the story in the next post.

MONTEREY/CARMEL HISTORY- Discovering Monterey-Carmel

(Excerpted from my book Our Summer in Carmel Amazon.com) Vizcaino's Rock. An unworthy tribute. See below. From Carbrillo's misadventures in 1542 more than fifty yeas would pass before Spain would pay any attention to his expedition. Events on a larger scale prodded Spain into action. By the close of the 16th Century, Spain was engaged in extended trading between Mexico and its outpost in the Philippines, Manila. But their treasure laden ships were exposed to attack, particularly by the English, and the likes of Sir Francis Drake. Drake had already landed not far north of present day San Francisco, and claimed the entire Pacific coast for Queen Elizabeth. Something had to be done. Officials in Mexico decided it was time to organize an expedition for the specific purpose of surveying the California coast. The man chosen was Sebastian Vizcaino (Vis-Cane-nyo) an experienced seaman who, like Carbrillo before him, invested much of his own money in the adventure. He sailed from Acapulco on 5 May, 1602, sixty years after Carbrilo, with three ships, 200 men, and three Carmelite Friars. (Aha, you say. ites! The plot thickens) After six months (it took Carbrillo three) Vizcaino reached San Miguel and renamed it San Diego in honor of the saint. He did the same in renaming Bahia de los Humos San Pedro at present day Los Angeles, thereby wiping out Carbrillo's contribution to famous place names. Sorry Carbrillo, no copyright laws in those days. The coastal mountains below Monterey were named Santa Lucia, after another catholic feast day. Those three Carmelite Friars were hard at work on the Catholic Calendar of Saints and Feast days, in case something new developed any day. Well, something was about to happen. On the 15th of December, the party passed a pine-covered headland jutting out into the sea which they named Punta de Pinos. Not long afterwards they saw, for the first time Monterey Bay. The next day, all three ships entered the calm waters that Vizciano named Monterey, in honor of the Viceroy of New Spain, The Conde de Monte Rey. Was Vizcaino a bootlicker? Not really, it was good job security back then to name places after your boss. Upon landing they found a landmark in a great oak tree, fresh water flowing from a stream nearby, and material to build a small nave. One of the Friars said mass under the great oak, and legend has it that at the end of the service, the fog lifted revealing the beautiful waters of the bay and the abundant forests beyond. NAMING CARMEL. The day before leaving to return to Mexico, Vizcaino took an expedition to see what lay over the hill to south we now know as Carmel Hill on Highway 1. Thus on January 3rd. he discovered a river flowing into a smaller bay and named it Rio Carmelo, in honor of the friars who had accompanied him. It was payback time for the three monks. Little known is that the name Carmel River, dating from January, 1603, is one of the oldest place names in the United states. I looked all around for the spot that Vizcaino landed on and held his service under the great oak. It is marked by a rock alongside a large parking garage and a tunnel exit diverting traffic around the bay. I doubt very many in Monterey even know of its existence. This important site was to play a role later for future explorers. It is equivalent to Plymouth Rock...the Plymouth Rock of the West Coast. But it has been shunted aside. What a shame. As Elysee said, lost between a rock and a hard place.

Monterey History- Part two

(Excerpted from my book Our Summer in Carmel, Amazon.com) In what the Spanish called Alta California, there was not the relentless effort to colonize, proselytize and claim territory that there had been in Mexico, Peru and the Eastern coasts of the new world. But change was coming, none the less. Perhaps the first Spaniard to see the Monterey area was Juan Rodriguez Carbrillo. The records are sparse and historians are uncertain. Carbrllo had come to Mexico in 1519 as part of an expedition to reprimand Hernan Cortes for exceeding his authority in dealing with the Aztecs. Rather than reprimanding Cortes, he instead joined him, and was instrumental in Cortes' defeat of the Aztecs. Twenty years later, Cabrillo, then a prosperous landowner, a founder of Guatemala City, and a settled married man was asked by the Governor of Spain's empire in Central America, to lead an expedition to explore the possible riches further up the coast to what is called Alta California. (I will skip here the politics of why it took over two years to set sail, and uundermanned at that, but a brief summary is contained in the book.) Cabrillo discovered and named (all to be changed later) San Diego, Catalina Island, and Los Angeles. Sailing further north, he encountered a series of difficulties. He broke his arm in a storm, continued sailing north despite declining provisions, and on November 11, 1542, was again stricken by a storm off of present day Point Pinos at nearby Monterey Bay. No sooner had they sighted this landmark that the ships were blown back out to sea and the expedition was finally forced to turn around, making landfall at San Miguel, present day San Diego. While waiting out the severe winter storms, the brave Cabrillo succumbed to gangrene, never having seen the Monterey area. From Cabrillo's misadventures more than fifty years would pass before Spain would pay any attention to his expedition. It was later events, on a larger scale, that finally prodded Spain into action

Monterey History-Part I

(Excerpt from my book, Our Summer In Carmel, available at Amazon.com) A prehistoric grinding hole near Fr. Serra's statue on the grounds of the presidio I like history. I begin my photo/travel journal with a brief amateur overview of the Monterey Peninsula. Providing some historical context helps to better understand a place today. This short historical discourse is divided into three phases. Prehistory, Spanish/Mexican governance, and lastly the arrival of the Yankee. For thousands of years, anthropologists don't know exactly how long, but well before the first arrival of "modern" man the Spanish, the Monterey area was inhabited by three native tribes. One tribe, The Coastanoan, were named by the Spanish because they resided on the from Carmel to Big Sur and into parts of the Salinas Valley. They were friendly and approachable. The other two tribes, with similar friendly dispositions, were the Esselan, who mainly inhabited the mountains, and the Salinan who occupied the southern reaches of the Salinas Valley. The people of these tribes lived off the land, assembled in villages consisting of small huts made from brush and poles, and would move to a new location, burning their huts, when conditions dictated such as sanitation or food supply demanded they do so. Little is known about these tribes during the thousands of years preceding the Spanish. The Esselan, the smallest were the first to become extinct. The Salinian may have numbered 2,000 and the Coastanoan perhaps 3,000. This last tribe we know most about as they were in close proximity to the Spanish settlements and provided most of the souls and labor to satisfy the needs of the Franciscan Padres. These peoples believed that at one time the earth was covered with water (Noah?) except for a single mountain that protruded above the water. The mountain was inhabited by an eagle, coyote, and a hummingbird. Together, at the instigation of the coyote, as the waters receded, they agreed to create man and all other living things, an interesting parallel to Noah and the biblical flood. These natives had ceremonial dances, knew how to fashion hunting weapons, and wove baskets. These simple, primitive, and peaceful people were soon overwhelmed by "modern man" who came to save their souls and civilize them. If one looks closely there are sings of the existence today. Near where the first Spanish explorers landed, on the grounds of the Presidio, is a grinding hole, used by the natives. It would be filled with nuts and seeds and ground into flour with a stick. It was most likely Costanoan.

CARMEL/MONTEREY NEW BLOG

This blog will get its input from my book Our Summer in Carmel, available from Amazon.com The book describes the experiences mt wife, Elysee, and I had while renting a summer home in Carmel for three plus months. What the book also does is provide an example of a lifestyle I champion. It is my belief that for many persons, especially retiring "Boomers", temporarily renting a second home each summer, preferably in a different place each year, is a superior financial and lifestyle strategy than buying a second home. While not for everyone, it has many advantages which are described in a forthcoming book, The World Is Your Second Home. I have been enchanted with the Monterey Peninsular ever since I first drove down 17 mile drive in December 1964. Returning from a tour of duty with the US Army in Korea, I was met by my wife in San Francisco and we just took off south with the the eventual destination of Guaymus, Mexico. I was unprepared for the splendor of the Monterey area, its history, culture, arts, seascape, climate and intelligent population. Abandoning my own advice to reside each summer in a different place in world each year I have been lured back to Carmel/Monterey every three or four years. This 157 page photo/journal account is about one of those visits. I would like to hear from others not only on the subject matter of this book, but also about the Carmal/Monterey area and my notion of renting a second home each year instead of purchasing a second home. I've included the cover from the book and a couple of links where you can read ahead by going to google books or putting the book in your own library by going to Amazon.com